The Homestay Development in Sapa

A visit to the local tour operators in Hanoi revealed that the current tourism development in Sapa is lacking clear structure. Sapa is facing an increase in tourist visitations, but with the lack of facilities and amenities, the region is slowly reaching its capacity and becoming overcrowded. The tour operators in Hanoi have been seeing the rapidly increasing demand for homestays, but as many homes do not meet the criteria of the tour operators, they are not considered for their clients. Simultaneously, some villagers are not motivated to upgrade their homes, because they had yet to witness the influx of tourists in the village themselves; this creates a problematic catch-22 situation.

Meeting with Mr. Hoang Nguyen, HandSpan Travel IndoChina

Mr. Hoang Nguyen, the Vice Director of HandSpan Travel Indochina shared that his experiences working with the local women of Sapa have been positive- but not without its own set of challenges. He has the drive to work directly with the locals there, because it helped him create authentic experiences for his clients, and because it also helped enrich the lives of the local community. According to Mr. Hoang, he felt that enforcing modern living standards and infrastructure in the homes would challenge the truly authentic village experience. To quote him, “the soul of the homestay is important”.  

Late last summer, our CBT Vietnam project linked the Hmong women of Lao Chai with the tour operators of Hanoi, by bringing a small group of women to the big city. One of the women's meetings was with HandSpan Travel Indochina. When they met with Mr. Hoang’s company, the representatives liked the women's proposal and took the opportunity to form a business partnership with them. Unfortunately, he still struggles to meet the demand of his clients, because there wasn’t enough developed homestays. He felt that HandSpan simply required more support from larger tour operators to affect real change. In fact, he has already tried calling the big players to encourage them to work with the locals more, and use local services (like staying at homestays and eating traditional home cooked meals). He believes that those companies can and should assist with the development because they possess a larger client base and expertise.

In the village of TaPhin, Lao Cai, Vietnam

Looking into the future, the homestay owners still need some support from companies to develop the structures and systems needed for a tourist destination to thrive. If both parties can come together and form a synergetic relationship, then the goal can be accomplished and the needs of both parties can be met.

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The Significance of the Red Dao Headdress

Source: Kyle Sandilands, CBT Vietnam Team

In Vietnam, the Dao ethnic minority is an umbrella to a variety of groups, including the Red Dao; The Red Dao are the second largest ethnic minority, following the Hmong who are the first largest. Researchers say that the two groups have quite close relationships; the differences can be easily recognized by appearance, costumes, and way of life. A unique characteristic of this minority is their vibrant costume. The women wear long indigo blouses over trousers, which are endowed with many different red and white decorations at the collar and the lap. In the Sapa market, their costume is often considered one of the most beautiful.1

Source: http://sapatoursfromhanoi.com/exploring-the-red-dao-ethnicity-culture-in-ta-phin-village-sapa/

One of the most important features of the Dao woman’s identity is their headdress known as the Huong. When a young girl reaches about 13 years old, she is gifted a headdress from her parents. It is at this age that she is old enough to go to the market, and to begin courtship.2 Aside from being experts in silver-smithing, the Red Dao are also exceptionally skilled in brocade. In fact, the craftsmanship of brocade is a focal point of their marital system; unless a girl has mastered the art, she will not be married.3

Source: https://vickychong.wordpress.com/2014/03/13/vietnam-trekking-in-sapa-with-red-dao-tribes/

As you can see, the actual appearance of the gorgeous headdress is quite distinct. It is also normal for the headdress to be adorned with coins, silver bells, and tassels and to have about 20-25 layers of red cloth. Once folded, tucked, and tied, the headdress becomes a round, puffed shape. Hair is tucked inside the cloth to ensure that no strands are to be exposed.2 Because of Sapa's (sometimes) harsh weather, the headdress is not only beautiful but functional! So, if you ever find yourself in Sapa, Vietnam, you may just be lucky enough to see this craft yourself!

 References:

1. About Red Dao people in Sapa. (2015). Retrieved April 19, 2016, from http://www.dirtbiketravel.com/news/about-red-dao-people-sapa

2. Dao - Taphin, Sapa. (n.d.). Retrieved April 19, 2016, from http://www.craftlink.com.vn/projects/ethnic-groups/Dao-Taphin-Sapa.html

3. The Red Dao in Ta Phin. (n.d.). Retrieved April 19, 2016, from http://www.taphin-sapa.info/Home/Our-Ta-Phin/History/The-Red-Dao.php

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The stars of the CBT Vietnam project

For nearly a decade I have been fortunate to be a part of a community based tourism project through Capilano University. I have worked on this transformational project in Vietnam in varying capacities and have many people to thank.

Sapa's inspiring terraced landscape.

In northern Vietnam there is a (in)famous tourist destination known as Sapa. Inspiring terraced landscape, cool climate and colourful culture is easily accessible via overnight train. For one hundred years visitors have frequented Sapa. Tourism is here to stay.

The ‘CBT Vietnam’ project emerged from a trip to Sapa by a group from Hanoi Open University (Vietnam), Capilano University(Canada) and North Island College (Canada). Dr. Geoffrey Bird led an initial five-year project supported by the Association of Canadian Community Colleges. The project focused on skills-based training in the villages of Tavan and Taphin. Volunteer students and faculty from partner schools developed and delivered training primarily to local women. The goal was to create new opportunities for employment, develop a more sustainable form of tourism, and increase quality of life.

I was a student volunteer on the project who was changed by the experience. In fact, I took a leave from my studies and moved to Vietnam to travel and work in tourism. I was inspired.

Speaking with Khu in Lao Chai.

Two years after the project had completed I visited Taphin village and some of the locals. We discussed the idea of another project. Planning, entrepreneurship, network building, collective marketing and mutually beneficial partnerships were themes that would eventually lead to a series of projects generously supported by the PATA Foundation. The projects continue to bring Vietnamese and Canadian volunteer students together in the delivery of community tourism learning programs.

Some of the stars: Taryn, Stephanie, Jase and Kyle.

My current role as a project lead, and the successes it brings, is the product of the hard work of many. I am thankful for those who have continued to selflessly put forth their time and effort. Instructors and Deans, Stephanie Wells, Jen Reilly, Kim McLeod, Dr. Chris Bottrill, Casey Dorin, Ms. Ngoc Anh and Ms. Que have been instrumental in making these projects happen. The countless students that have been on the CBT Vietnam project are the heroes and heroines. Our stars. In the field they have excelled. They have been the energy and the true grit of the project. 

In a training workshop. Ms. Ly Man May is pictured second from the left. 

But the people that deserve the most appreciation are those from the villages. They have inspired us all. Tearful goodbyes when we depart from a project trip are testament that we are more than partners in the experience. This community development project is not an ‘us’ and ‘them’ case study. People like Ms. Ly Man May in Taphin, Ms. Soi in Tavan and Ms. Mai in Lao Chai are some of the individuals that deserve all the credit. These resilient, thoughtful women have trusted and welcomed us into their homes. 

When you go to Sapa you might have the opportunity to stay with some of these women. Learn from them like we have, and when you leave, be sure to thank them in their language.

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I Need to Get My Name on that Book!

Even though technology has left its mark on most households, nature still rules in the village of Ta Phin. There is a story behind every custom and tradition. Dao people have learned from their parents how things should be done, and for most parts those rules still apply to their lifestyles today.

Nights in the village begin early at dusk as families gather around the fire to cook dinner. Although women run the kitchen, in all the families that I stayed with, men had an active part in preparing the food; from preparing the meat to setting the table, pouring the rice wine and entertaining the guests.

Dao kitchens are part of a big open area in the house where everyone gathers upon entering. There are usually two stoves in the kitchen; one for cooking and one for preparing the herbs for the herbal bath. Dao women cook one dish at a time on the cooking stove, and they use the same pot to prepare all the dishes. Considering that there are usually five to ten different dish prepared for every meal, preparing dinner can take up to an hour. They set the table and where everything is ready, you are invited to eat.

Dinner table at a Dao Home stay

I stayed with Chao Ta May and her family on my second night in Ta Phin during the recent CBT Vietnam Project trip to SaPa. At night we all gathered around the fire as she welcomed us with a bowl of fries; a very unique fried potato dish with garlic and salt or sugar! A much needed appetizer while we were waiting for the actual meal.

Chao Ta May’s son had recently got married and was living with his new bride at the same house. As Chao Ta May was preparing the dinner, I asked her about the wedding customs of Dao people.  

“We found her in the book” she replied with a smile. It took me a while to figure out that this ‘book’ was actually a record of available girls in the neighborhood villages and was made by a matchmaker. “I picked her. We sent her family two silver bracelets and waited to see if they would accept them” she eagerly continued. “Then we sent the chicken”. “The chicken?!” I asked spuriously. “Yes! 10kg exactly, and we waited again. When they accepted it, we sent the 70kg pig”. She explained that these numbers were important because the bride’s family had to invite certain people in the process and needed to feed them. “Things have changed!” she continued. “When I was getting married I had no way of seeing or contacting my future husband until the wedding day. He was in another village! Nowadays kids contact each other before the marriage. My son and his wife had sent each other pictures by phone and were talking for a while” she continued with a smile. “When all the decisions are made, the bride should start making her dress. It takes her one year to finish the dress” she said that with a smile! She must have been thinking about her own dress.

As Chao Ta May was sharing this with us, I couldn't help but thinking about the traditional weddings and arranged marriages. If it was not for the match makers and the ‘books’, have these young boys and girls who live miles away in different villages ever had a chance to meet? After all, there seems to be a place and time for everything, even for an arranged marriage and that is in Ta Phin and among Dao people. As for the book, I am on one already; it is called Facebook, so where is my chicken!? 

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Marketing the Market

Imagine walking through a market in another country. As a tourist, we tend to just browse through the selection and ignore the people trying to sell to us, afraid that if we talk to them we'll have to buy something. Usually the most important task will be trying to get a product for the cheapest price.

Reviewing ideas for merchandising

This last month I, along with Sabrina, were blessed to work in TaPhinwith the Red Dao women. This formalized market was recently completed and we were given the opportunity to discover new ways to bring the market alive to attract more tourists. Our work began before we arrived as we took photos of local Vancouver markets to illustrate various ways of merchandising and cooperating.  We had so many ideas running through our heads and wanted to be sure that tourists could feel comfortable in browsing the market AND talking with the locals.

We spent six days meeting and working with the market sellers in both group and one-on-one sessions. I felt that we only scratched the surface of the Red Dao culture and development of a successful market.

Sabrina dressed in traditional Red Dao garments

During our discussion of culture, we generated ideas for improved tourist experiences. We helped the women display their booths in appealing ways, such as creating bamboo hangers in order to display the handicrafts and clothing. For product diversification, we helped each woman see the benefits of placing their differentiating products at the front of their booth, instead of featuring the same products as their neighbour. We expect to see in the near future, as high season approaches, booths filled with teas, fruit and vegetables, and herbal bath products. 

Discussing ideas

Through our discussions, the women began to think of new ways to manage street selling and the hassling of tourists. The most difficult task moving forward is keeping the market full. Many of the women cannot come to sell every day due to other responsibilities in the fields. Also, there are many women who prefer to sell on the streets because this is the way it has always been done. We hope that our efforts and cooperation with the Red Dao women and local government will create a more sustainable and beneficial tourism product for the people of TaPhin. 

The relationships we developed, in such a short time, have impacted our lives in numerous ways. I have already made a promise to myself that I will come back someday. The women have told us that the time we spend to get to know them is very special, as many of the tourists treat them as if they do not exist. 

With Ta May

One of the relationships I created on this trip was with Ta May. I will be working closely with her over the next month because she has taken on a huge responsibility. Ta May told us as we were leaving that she wants to be in charge of the market. She will work each day with the Red Dao women to keep the ideas flowing, in hopes that one day they will be able to stop street selling and have a thriving market. 

The development of a relationship is a two way street. If these women are taking the time to learn how to interact with tourists in a polite and enjoyable way, it is important for tourists to take the time to sit down and talk. If tourists take the time to get to know locals during their travels, they will have a more memorable experience.

I thank Capilano University, the PATA Foundation and our partner in Vietnam Hanoi Open University for the most amazing experience and opportunities.

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TaPhin: Where Life Goes by Different Rules

There is a road in SaPa that goes all the way from the mountain down to the valley. I once called it the stairway to heaven. If SaPa is the stairway to heaven, TaPhin is heaven itself! 

We left SaPa on Monday morning and arrived in TaPhin village before noon. The car dropped us off near the entrance of the village in an area known as Doi Mot, or the Commune One. We walked down the valley, crossed a river and trekked up the mountain for about 30 minutes to get to where four home-stay owners run their businesses. The scenery was breathtaking. 

We spent the whole afternoon meeting the owners, touring the homes, asking them about the challenges they are facing, inspecting the capacity and potential development of the homes, and talking to them about promotional and marketing strategies. 

We split up into three groups in the evening to stay in different homestays in Doi Mot, in order to experience what tourists experience when they stay in those homes overnight. I stayed at Ms. Ly May Lai’s house and got to meet her family and extended family who were visiting from China. I offered to help prepare the dinner and May Lai showed me how to clean the pumpkin leaves before she cooked them.

Fresh and local aren't just trends here!

The process of preparing meat is very different from what we are used to in Vancouver. Even in scratch kitchens in North America, things are not as ‘from the scratch’ as are in the village! I didn’t expect the pork and chicken to come out of beautifully sealed packages, but I was still surprised when they just grabbed them from outside, killed them in the kitchen, clean and cut them, and then cook them right away! When I told my host that my family eats rice, I was asked if we have a rice field!

Preparing dinner

Getting ready for dinner

We spent the whole evening cooking on one stove at the corner of the house. There are usually two stoves in each house in TaPhin: one for cooking and one for preparing the herbal bath. May Lai was sitting by the stove the whole time and cooking the dishes one after the other. When one dish was done, it was put into a plate and sent to the table, but no one started dinner until all the dishes were done and placed on the table. The process of preparing ten different dish on one stove and in one pot took about an hour. The whole family then gathered around the dinner table and rice and alcohol were served.

Herbal baths

Even though I was planning to have a herbal bath, I was too tired to stay up late that night. May Lai’s house has two guestrooms. Since I was the only guest that night I got the whole room to myself. The room had 7 beds in a row with red/pink flower patterned blankets. A blue mosquito net was hung on top of each bed, and there was another door at the other side of the room which opened to the washroom and herbal bath areas. I called it my own en-suite shower room. 

Bamboo bug!

Roosters woke me up at 4:30. This was not my first time away from home opening my eyes in an unfamiliar environment, but it sure was the most authentic one. Outside the glassless window chicks and piglets were playing; the sound of a woman singing in the distance had added a mysterious feeling to the foggy view of the valley; and the smell of the burned bamboos in the fireplace was like no other worldly smell. Even the big bamboo bug that May Lai’s father had found outside and brought in didn’t look scary anymore! The time had slowed down letting me grasp and take in this new experience. That morning as I walked down the valley and crossed the river through the fog, I knew I was a different person; I had seen the heaven. 

Ms. May Lai and Hedieh

(Written by Hedieh Ahmari, student volunteer)

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A Night in Taphin

A key objective for this trip is to, once again, bring the women entreprenuers of TaPhin back to Hanoi to meet tour operators.  We did this last October and have found some success in operators sending tourists to the Taphin homestays. 

There is a reason why people enjoy staying at these homestays and last night I had the pleasure of staying at the homestay of Ms. May Kieu.  I met May Kieu on our last trip, she has a quiet demeanour and a smile that lights up a room.  She is passionate about her homestay business and always ready to share her culture and engage in a participatory experience.  

She spent time showing me some of the items she plans to take to Hanoi and how she makes them.  Each is hand embroidered and each section has meaning, some show girls and boys, some have trees and flowers.  The piece is then sewn together with a sewing machine.

Showing me how she makes wall hangings

Her homestay is beautiful, with private rooms, platform beds, full washroom with heated shower and a kitchen with a huge fireplace.  All of this makes for a comfortable atmosphere. 

Beautiful Fireplace for Cooking

One aspect that is special about these homestays is the fact that the villagers grow almost everything they eat.  It puts 100 mile diet in a whole new perspective.

Tonight’s dinner consisted of rice which came from their fields, grated pumpkin and steamed pumpkin leaves from her garden out back and chicken which was brought in the house squawking at 7:00pm and we ate at 8:00pm.  During dinner she informed me that she also keeps chickens specifically for eggs and grows carrots and eggplant for additional vegetables.  I noticed a shelf full of pumpkin leaves on one side of the room, she said that those ones were no longer good and will be fed to the pigs.  When it comes to food waste, there is very little.

But that was not the best part of the evening.  That came when her husband, Loua, went out to their beehive and collected fresh honey.  This honey was bottled to give as a gift to one lucky tour operator next week in Hanoi. I had never tasted honey fresh from the hive and was able to sit and pick pieces off from a huge bowl with her mother-in-law and grandma.  It was delicious!

Enjoying Honey

It is this kind of experience that tour operators look for and they are fortunate to have May Kieu and the other Taphin homestays providing such a great product.

For more information on May Kieu’s homestay visit www.taphinhomestay.com and the Taphin homepage at http://www.taphin-sapa.info/ 

Submitted by: Stephanie Wells

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Memories

The preparation for the February Vietnam trip is bringing back so many memories. The last time I traveled to Vietnam I was seven, so I don’t remember much about the trip. But learning about the history of Vietnam through Chris and the different sources I have been reading, the memory bank has been opened. 

They say that the senses are the strongest memories, and it is true! The smells and tastes of different foods are flooding my mind. The clearest memory is definitely the orange flavored ice cream my parents would bribe my brother and me with in order for us not to complain about the heat.  Of course that would something I would remember, what seven year old doesn’t love ice cream?


I was only in the Sapa region for a short amount of time, but as I look at pictures of the area, I remember the train ride up. Fortunately, this trip we will not be taking the train that I remember. From what I recall it was the cheaper of the two trains… and it showed. This train was my first experience to rail travel and to be honest I have never recovered! Most details have been mentally blocked out for my own sanity of that train, but I would take it again just to travel to Sapa. One of the feelings brought up when thinking about this region is being cold. I was so cold when I was there. 

Learn from my mistakes right? Bring warm clothes is underlined twice in my packing list. 
The memory that has stuck with me since we traveled is the vibrant colours and designs of the fabrics and sashes the women were selling. My family has one hanging in our dining room, which is probably the reason I remember the moment we bought it in Vietnam!

Even if I don’t get the chance to go on the Vietnam trip in February, it is amazing just to be part of the planning process. I am learning so much about Vietnam that I never would have known, which is making my desire to go someday even stronger.

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Spotlight: Lo May

It has been an amazing experience being connected with the Sapa villages as we all learn and grow together. One journey that we have had the opportunity watch is Lo May's. Today Lo May can be found in Hanoi, building up her resume as a tourism profesional, and preparing to make a move to Canada to continue her studies.

When we first met Lo May, she was running between her classes at the Taphin elementary school and the CBT Vietnam training sessions. Back then, she told us that she planned to become a singer when she grew up, and would often share her love for singing with traditional songs.

Lo May has had an tough adolescence. When her father passed away her responsibilities to her mother and family became so significant that she almost had to stop going to elementary school. Determined to finish school, it was double-duty for young Lo May.

Lo May has gained a reputation as a youth leader in her village. She has volunteered for NGOs such as Oxfam. She also gained a scholarship to go to highschool at the Vietnam-Laos Friendship School. Since graduation Lo May has become a local tour guide, and a key village trainer and interpreter for the CBT Vietnam project. You can catch what Lo May had to say about tourism and her village in the short film "When the tourists come."

Last year, Capilano University awarded Lo May with a scholarship to attend school in Canada. The scholarship will see that Lo May studies in Capilano University's International Student's Tourism Management Diploma Program. Her years as an undergrad will start this September.

Most recently, Lo May moved to Hanoi to try and gain experience working in Vietnam's growing tourism industry. She has secured a job working with a 3 star hotel group in Hanoi's Old Quarter as a receptionist at one, and as a concierge at another. Within her first week Lo May was making record sales!

When asked Lo May will say that she has learned a lot from the CBT project, especially when it comes to what she knows about tourism. She is excited for new opportunities, and plans to move into the kitchen as soon as she can. Not to leave her other positions, but to work all three! She currently starts at 7:00am working as a receptionist, has lunch, then moves to the second hotel to sell tours and transportation services till 10:00pm 6 days a week.

Lo May is one youth leader from Taphin village that we will be watching as she continues her exciting journey!

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